Vayl, Consul of Everblight

Original upload date: February 16 2014

I’ve finished Vayl2. I used her as a practise model during Meg Maples’ Masterclass painting workshop.

Vayl Consul of Everblight

Meg showed us how she paints her amazing eyes. It’s quite a bit more involved than my usual minimalist approach, but basically goes:
Step 1: Black
Step 2: White leaving black outline
Step 3: Black circle in centre
Step 4: Bright colour in black circle
Step 5: Tiny black dot in top half of bright circle
Step 6: White reflection dot

It was incredible to watch her do this, and which such a large brush as well! My attempt misses out on the final step, but I’m pleased nonetheless. Here’s my attempt:

Vayl Consul of Everblight

Later on I took some pics while experimenting with a $1 lens from ebay (like these here). It sticks onto a mobile phone and acts like a macro lens.

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Her green eyes show up a little better when when taking pictures with it, but I couldn’t avoid that slight orange tint around the photo or manage to keep the lens cap out of the shot!

Vayl Consul of Everblight

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Throne of Everblight Conversion: The Tentacles

Original upload date: January 7 2014 – May 16 2015

I chose this tentacle as the base anchor for the portal as it has a small flat section that fits onto the platform the best. I started by sawing off the end of the tentacle. It widens to socket into the beast’s body but I wanted to lengthen and change the angle to have it emerging from the pool above. I then hollowed out the top section so that I could have an increased surface area to attach the new top half of the tentacle. I drilled out a deep pin hole to support the upper tentacle and platform. This time I used a hollow brass rod to minimise weight.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

I want to assemble the model in three sub-assemblies to make it easier to paint, and that means I need this tentacle connection to remain separate until the painting is done. I made a plug of putty as my starting point for the upper tentacle. I liberally applied vaseline to the socket so that the putty plug will be a perfect fit, but not stick.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

I decided to wrap a tentacle around the platform for cool factor. I started by forming the basic shape out of aluminium foil. I use al foil as an armature as it is lighter and cheaper than putty, but it is not load-bearing so I needed to pin the claw through the putty into the platform.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

I then sculpted putty over the top of the foil, joining it up with the original claw.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

I realised at this point how long this conversion was going to take me. I could only sculpt a couple of scales at a time (or risk smudging) and I had about a hundred to go! Ugh.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

I started to thicken up the support tentacle and add scales. It was important to match up the thickness so that it blends together when it’s all joined up to the portal, but for now I wanted to keep the pieces separate so that I could paint underneath the portal more easily. It’s taking a long time because I keep messing it up the thickness and the scales.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

The two side tentacles are done. I had to saw off the ends as they thickened to fit into the Throne’s sockets. I want to make it look like the body of the beast is much higher on the other side of the portal, so the thickness of the tentacles needed to be more uniform. For that reason I filled in some of the musculature at the top of the tentacle as well. Some of the tentacles had a flattened section to rest on the base, because mine will be in mid-air I needed to fill out those flattened sections.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

Here’s the top half of the wrapping tentacle. I learned a lot from my mistakes with the first one so I got the shape completely done before I started the scales.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

As opposed to this one, which I was very unhappy with. I lost count now of how many times I sliced greenstuff off and started again. It’s vertical so that it can support the weight of the structure but it just doesn’t look right.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

So, after stripping it and resculpting several times I decided to start over and curled the putty around the brass rod. I think it’s an improvement but I wasted several months of sculpting those damn scales! That’s the new one on the left.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

Here it is connected to the resin tentacle.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

This conversion has taken me a very long time. I experienced delays when my putty never arrived. I tried a different putty and it turnout so badly that I had to rip it all off and start again. I also had to start the first tentacle from scratch. All together it took the fun out of the project and so I was dragging my heels on the conversion. (Don’t worry, it’s finally finished now!)

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Gatormen Posse Conversion

Original upload date: November 9 2013 – May 10 2015

I converted two of the Posse to avoid duplicates. I find that for units with large weapons, changing the angle of the weapon is enough to change the profile of the model. Here’s the first Gator with his arm closer to his body.

Gatormen Posse Conversion

For the second Gator I wanted to try something similar to my earlier Spawning Vessel Acolyte conversion. I cut the arm off and extended the weapon haft, rotating the angle so that the weapon rested on the base. I needed something to go into his other hand but I didn’t want to do another weapon. So I went through my bits box and found the leftover Incubi body I had from my last conversion. His face was suitably tortured in appearance, so I cut off the head and pinned it to the Gator’s fist. I rotated the arm and resculpted the elbow, then I added hair coming from the fist and over the top. I’m quite happy with how he looks.

Gatormen Posse Conversion

I ruined the ear while sawing the head off, so I had to give him a new one. All better! I decided to paint it up in the same colours as my Nyss, as a reminder to their employers that the Gators are not to be trifled with.

Gatormen Posse Conversion

And here they are painted up. I wanted to make them look grubbier than my Legion, so I drybrushed and washed the scales and stippled their weapons. I used the same colours as my Legion beasts but in a different way. They should hopefully tie into my army, while still looking separate from it.

Gatormen Posse

They have so many feathers, teeth and other goodies adorning them. I took the opportunity to add a bright, contrasting spot colour to the unit.

Gatormen Posse

I’m quite happy with how their eyes turned out.

Gatormen Posse Conversion

Gatormen Posse

I like playing with the Gatormen so much that I eventually got a second set. I’m not sure whether I prefer the new or older sculpts.

Gatormen Posse

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How to Paint Faces: Annyssa Ryvaal

Original upload date: November 3 2013

I was asked on the forums to explain how I paint my faces so I wrote a little guide:

Aella’s Guide to Painting Faces

Step 1: Clean and assemble your model as normal. I prime my Legion in white because of the pale flesh. When I paint darker/dirtier models, I prime in black.

Step 2: You can either start with a dark basecoat and highlight lighter, or start with a mid-tone and darken it. For my Legion, I start by basecoating with my main flesh colour (Rakarth Flesh). The important part here is to keep your paint thinned. Thick, clumpy paint is the easiest way to ruin a face.

Painting Faces Guide

Step 3: I add a wash to darken the recesses (Seraphim Sepia). In this case my wash also adds some warmth to the tone. This is fine for tabletop quality, but when I am painting to a higher standard I prefer to paint everything by hand to avoid wash patchiness.

Painting Faces Guide

Step 4: Highlight with the mid-tone (Rakarth Flesh). Often I see beginner painters skip straight from a wash to a top highlight. This skips out the middle colour and leads to stark highlighting. To get a smoother transition, reapply the mid-tone colour before highlighting the top layer. In this case I leave the dark colour in the recesses around her nose, and in her ears. Remember to keep your layers thin.

Step 5: At this point I paint the eyes so that if I mess up I can just repaint with my base colour for an easy fix. I paint black into the sockets and then two spots of white on either side of the pupil. Beginners often end up with a wide-eyed look. This is often due to not having a thick enough black line around the eye. The white dots must have black all around them to give the eye depth and avoid that wide-eyed stare. The pic below is of Annyssa after I filled in her sculpted eyes.

Painting Faces Guide

They are tiny! She will look like she is squinting. So I break the first rule of kindergarten and colour outside the lines. This will give us enough black to define her eye and avoid squinting or staring. Girls do this all the time in real life with the magic of eyeliner makeup.

Painting Faces Guide

Step 6: Highlight the raised sections of the face (Rakarth Flesh + White Scar). These sections include the tip of the nose, the cheekbones, chin and browline. Again, keep your paints thin. I use a different painting technique for skin than I do with the other parts of my model. Human brains are wired to recognise faces and so in my opinion, the skin and face are most important parts of the model. If the face is not quite right it can distract the eye from the rest of the model. The technique I use on my skin is called feathering. Coolminiornot has a pretty good description of it here. Basically you put paint on one part of the model and then pull it across the surface so that it gets thinner and thinner and shows more of the underneath layer through. You are effectively concentrating more pigment in some areas than others, as opposed to regular highlighting which involves lighter pigments painted over darker ones. The trick is to get it smooth, and it takes practise and time to get right. I save it for skin, and do quicker techniques on the rest of the model.

Painting Faces Guide

Step 7: Paint her lower lip with a shade of your choosing. I recommend mixing in a little of your flesh colour to tie it together, unless you are deliberately aiming for high contrast (e.g. Sorscha red). Paint a line for her lower lip, but do not paint her upper lip (unless you want her to look like a lady of ill repute). Instead add just two points of paint on the tips of the “cupid’s bow” (the pointy parts of the lip directly under each nostril).

Painting Faces Guide

Step 8: Highlight just the bottom lip with a lighter mix of your lip colour. This adds fullness to the lips.

Step 9: Add eye-colour if you wish. I usually avoid this for my rank-n-file females, because I think the natural look is better for marching off to war. I did however, get carried away on Annyssa. When adding colour to eyelids, I water my paint down and use it as a glaze. It’s runny enough to be a wash, but make sure you don’t have so much paint on your brush that it flows into the crevices to ruin your eyes. Add successive layers of the glaze and let the colour slowly build up.

Painting Faces Guide

Here is my finished Annyssa Ryvaal.

Annyssa Ryvaal

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Farilor Conversion

Original upload date: October 26 2013

I never really liked Captain Farilor’s squatting pose and I also wasn’t a fan of his derpy-face, so I sculpted him a new helmet. Unlike my other units, I have duplicate models in my Legionnaire unit because I love the idea that they are so well trained that they fight in unison. It reminds me of the scene at the beginning of The Lords of the Rings movies where the line of elves moves to cut down their opponents in a wave. Wicked cool.

Farilor Conversion

The Captain got a helmet as well as a three-tiered armoured neck collar-thingy. I did keep his hair coming out from the helm instead of feathers. The hair was surprisingly simple to sculpt. Sorry for the glare!

Farilor Conversion

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Throne of Everblight Conversion: The Portal

Original upload date: October 20 2013

I was playing around with the portal. I decided to texture the top first as it would be more difficult once the tentacles are attached. I hunted around for a picture of a whirlpool and came up with this image to use as a guide:

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I started applying putty to the top but then had a better idea. Vallejo Water Effects is awesome, it has the consistency of moisturising cream. You spread it across your surface and it dries clear. I decided to make a core shape out of the water effects and paint it up in blues. Then I’ll add a layer of water effects on top mixed with blue so it will be translucent. Finally I’ll add another layer on the very tips and paint it white like froth. This means that most of the whirlpool shape will be added as a later stage after I have assembled and painted the model. Here’s a pic of the water effects just after it was applied (sorry for the night-time shot).

Throne of Everblight Conversion

I originally planned to open up the middle (hence the hole) and have the whirlpool forming a cone shape, but I abandoned that idea. It was tricky to tell how it looked when it was clear so I gave it a dusting of white spray. I’m happy with how it turned out. Once it’s painted I’ll be bulking the waves out to about double their current size, but it’s an organic process. I’m mostly making it up as I go!

Throne of Everblight Conversion

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