Farilor Conversion

Original upload date: October 26 2013

I never really liked Captain Farilor’s squatting pose and I also wasn’t a fan of his derpy-face, so I sculpted him a new helmet. Unlike my other units, I have duplicate models in my Legionnaire unit because I love the idea that they are so well trained that they fight in unison. It reminds me of the scene at the beginning of The Lords of the Rings movies where the line of elves moves to cut down their opponents in a wave. Wicked cool.

Farilor Conversion

The Captain got a helmet as well as a three-tiered armoured neck collar-thingy. I did keep his hair coming out from the helm instead of feathers. The hair was surprisingly simple to sculpt. Sorry for the glare!

Farilor Conversion

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Throne of Everblight Conversion: The Portal

Original upload date: October 20 2013

I was playing around with the portal. I decided to texture the top first as it would be more difficult once the tentacles are attached. I hunted around for a picture of a whirlpool and came up with this image to use as a guide:

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I started applying putty to the top but then had a better idea. Vallejo Water Effects is awesome, it has the consistency of moisturising cream. You spread it across your surface and it dries clear. I decided to make a core shape out of the water effects and paint it up in blues. Then I’ll add a layer of water effects on top mixed with blue so it will be translucent. Finally I’ll add another layer on the very tips and paint it white like froth. This means that most of the whirlpool shape will be added as a later stage after I have assembled and painted the model. Here’s a pic of the water effects just after it was applied (sorry for the night-time shot).

Throne of Everblight Conversion

I originally planned to open up the middle (hence the hole) and have the whirlpool forming a cone shape, but I abandoned that idea. It was tricky to tell how it looked when it was clear so I gave it a dusting of white spray. I’m happy with how it turned out. Once it’s painted I’ll be bulking the waves out to about double their current size, but it’s an organic process. I’m mostly making it up as I go!

Throne of Everblight Conversion

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Incubi Conversion

Original upload date: October 5 2013 – December 14 2013

The two Incubi on the right are my conversions.

Incubi Conversion

I swapped a spare Legionnaire sword into the kneeling Incubi’s hands. I thought it looked a bit too long so I shortened it into a short sword. The one on the far right is a leftover Spell Martyr torso I had from an earlier conversion (always keep your bits!). I used the original Incubi’s legs, arms and dragon’s head. Here’s a WIP shot with the pins in before greenstuff.

Incubi Conversion

His abdomen had been damaged from the prior conversion so I had to resculpt some abs as well as fill in the arms.

Incubi Conversion

And here they are painted. I experimented with a new technique on these guys. GW had just released a bunch of new “special effects paints” and I’m always keen to try new ideas. This one is called “Blood for the Blood God” and it is a lovely rich red. It goes on with the consistency of paint but depending on how thick you put it on, it shows the underlying colours. It dries with a light sheen, which can become more glossy the thicker you paint it. I preferred to have it thin and semi-transparent. It also has a strange texture to it, not grainy but still it’s not completely smooth.

Incubi Conversion

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Throne of Everblight Conversion: Sorceress and Platform

Original upload date: October 2 2013

I felt as though the original Sorceress pose was too passive. I used a succubus arm to make it look like she is beckoning the horror down. (I bought a sprue of succy arms the last time my club did a PP order. I think these are a great investment for converting Legion, as hands are especially difficult to sculpt).

Throne of Everblight Conversion

The original throne has claws coming through the top. Since my platform is no longer part-beast I did not add these claws and instead obscured their holes. I then cut the tip off the claws, orientated them upward and stuck them on the corners of the platform. This is to help make my platform look different to the original and fit more closely to my art concept. In his picture I’m in the process of sculpting little bands around the ends of the spikes.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

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Throne of Everblight Conversion: The Base

Original upload date: September 26 2013 – October 16 2013

I needed to build the conversion from the ground up, so I started with the base. I started by scouring my native hardware/craft stores for cracking paint to match my desert bases. The idea with this stuff if that as it dries it pulls against the previous paint layers, leaving cool cracks in the surface.

After painting a base colour (for the medium to “pull” against) I spread this stuff on thick. The thicker the layer the deeper the cracks.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

After a couple of days drying it looked like this:

Throne of Everblight Conversion

It’s a cool effect, but not the one I was going for. The cracks are all along the outside pointing to the middle and they are cracking into uniform square shapes. This doesn’t match my army at all! I do like the effect, and I’ll keep it in mind if I ever do ice bases.

So back to the drawing board… After a lot of pondering I realise that the natural desert effect is caused by wet clay cracking in the desert sun. So I can try to emulate the effect with my own wet clay. I grab some clay and water and begin to whisk it together into a gluggy soup. It didn’t work very well, I’m not very good at whipping cream, let alone clay! So I did what any sane, rational person would do… and put it in the blender. (Make sure you wash your kitchen appliance thoroughly if you do not wish to end up with a bad case of spousal remorse).

So I poured the clay soup into my base and set it in the sun. It was a lovely 31°C (88°F) Spring day in Sydney so I hoped to get the cracking effect I was after.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

Bummer. Another cool looking effect, but not the one I was after. I decided to try again and begin ripping the clay off the base. It came off in lovely thin chunks and this gave me an idea. I began to glue the chunks back on the base in a random pattern.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

I needed a brass rod to pin the floating disk to the base. It needed to be study as I did not want any pressure from above to bend the wire. Not to worry though, it took the hubby’s entire body weight to bend it to the angle shown. Thanks hubby.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

The bend gives it a greater surface area for the glue, increasing the hold. To make it extra secure I added pins around the brass rod so that it can’t wiggle from side to side and finally some greenstuff to lock it in tight. I was SO happy to see that the platform piece came separate as I was worried I would have to do some severe sawing. I covered up the sockets on the underside of the platform.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

I was having trouble sculpting a rock for the base. I tried clay and greenstuff but I couldn’t get it working right. Cork and bark are great suggestions but I didn’t have any on hand, I did however find something else buried deep in my scenery box.

Rocks! I mean, what better to use as a rock? Right? I used to use shale in scenery projects because it is available where I live, it can be broken into the right size with your bare fingers and it paints up nice. I stopped using the shale a few years ago because it’s quite heavy, but that could actually be a boon for my current project. I glued some shale around the brass rod and filled up the gaps with putty and clay. I also added some bones and other details to the base. I quite like how it turned out!

Throne of Everblight Conversion

I stuck the platform in position. I also cut a circle of thick plasticard to use as my portal. I had a little internal debate on how large to make the portal. On the one hand, a large portal would look more impressive, but it would be nice to fit it in my army box. I also don’t want it to be too top heavy, because all of the weight will be resting on a tiny point. I’ll have to start conservative and enlarge it if needed.

Throne of Everblight Conversion

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Throne of Everblight Conversion: Planning

Original upload date: September 24 2013

It was at this point that I started planning my most ambitious project to date.

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I heard other Legion players talking about how good The Throne is with my (at the time) favourite Warlock, Thagrosh, but I really didn’t like the original model. So during my design stage I made a tally of all the things that I like about the model and the things I hate while keeping in mind Privateer Press’s converting restrictions (must retain weapons, no other manufacturers, etc) and came up with this:

Tentacles: They have to stay as they are the beast’s main weapons.
Sorceress: She’s fine.
Toothy Maw: Gross, but it suits the monster.
Metal Platform: Looks wicked cool.
Weird Tower Shape: Why is it so tall? I don’t like his tubular look.
Icky Brain Matter: Blargh. I don’t like the fleshy folds.

So I wanted a way to get rid of the tall shape and fleshy folds while retaining the tentacles, maw, platform and sorceress. I then realised that one of the reasons that I love the sorceress on the platform is that it reminds me of this:

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It’s a Magus from the Warhammer Online game that I tried out years ago, modelled after GW’s Disc of Tzeentch. I love the Spellcaster on hovering disc look, so that’s the direction I decided to take. Now as for the beastie itself, the maw surrounded by tentacles reminds me of this:

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It’s the Watcher in the Water from the Lord of the Rings. I like the idea of the maw emerging from a pool surrounded by the tentacles. But how will I put these two together? I could have the beast coming out of a pool in the ground while the sorceress floats overhead, but it may look like it’s reaching up to attack her. Then I had another idea:

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This is from another game, RIFT, that I tried out when it went free-to-play. I love the idea of a portal opening up overhead and tentacles of an eldritch abomination reaching down…

So my first draft was: “The sorceress will be standing on the top of the Throne platform hovering above the base. Over her head will be a portal from which the tentacles and maw will be emerging downward. There are a couple of issues: the main one is that it will be top heavy so I will have to secure it very strongly to its base. Another is that I’m not sure yet what to make the portal out of. But anyway, that’s what I’m going to try, and no doubt the draft will be revised as I have further ideas.”

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Nyss Raptor Conversion

Original upload date: September 7 2013 – September 30 2013

I converted up a mounted version of the plastic Lylyth to use as my Raptor unit leader and wrote a little guide in case anyone wanted to copy the idea:

Aella’s Guide to Converting Lylyth4: Raptor Leader of Everblight

Step 1: Assemble your bits. For this conversion you will need:

  • One Raptor (you will not need the rider’s torso)
  • One Plastic Lylyth (you will not need her legs)
  • Optional: One Raptor Bow

Nyss Raptor Conversion

Step 2: Remove mould lines from all the pieces and glue the two halves of the elk mount together onto its base.

Step 3: Lylyth’s cloak has a raised socket moulded into it for her legs to fit. Gently and carefully use a modelling knife to remove this bulk. You will want her cloak to be approximately uniform in thickness. Do not worry about making it smooth as this part of the cloak will be obscured in the final assembly.

Nyss Raptor Conversion

Step 4: Lylyth’s cloak initially hangs below her torso. We need to change the angle so that it flows out behind her over the mount. This is why it’s handy to use the plastic version of Lylyth. Heat the plastic and slowly bend the cloak backwards. You will need to continually dry-fit Lylyth against your assembled elk mount to see how she fits. I found my hair-dryer to be too slow for this, so I popped her into a pot of boiling water. Be aware that you will only have a few seconds to bend the plastic before it hardens again. Take your time, bend, test and reheat until you are satisfied with the fit. If she isn’t bending well, you may need to go back to Step 3 and cut the cloak a little thinner.
Note: You could use the metal Lylyth model for this conversion, but the P.P. metal is brittle and not suited for bending. You may need to resculpt the cloak instead. Additionally the metal version of this sculpt is not conveniently separated at the waist.

Nyss Raptor Conversion

Step 5: (Optional) You may use the original Lylyth’s weapon, but I thought it was too recognisable, and I wanted to tie her more closely into the Raptors unit. Use a sharp hobby knife to remove Lylyth’s hand from the bow and trim the excess. I chose to separate her wrist as well so that I could rotate the bow’s angle to one I preferred. Pin the new weapon to Lylyth’s hand, taking care that the bow is straight.

Nyss Raptor Conversion

Step 6: Assemble the rest of Lylyth as normal, adding the Raptor’s sword to her back.

Step 7: Fill up any gaps with your product of choice, and admire your handiwork!

Here is the finished Lylyth Raptor Leader. She was a relatively easy conversion, and very quick too.

Nyss Raptor Conversion

Nyss Raptor Conversion

Nyss Raptor Conversion

And here are the painted Raptors:

Nyss Raptor

Nyss Raptor

Nyss Raptor Conversion

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